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Page 58 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
P. 58

    Handicrafts & Carpets                               Related Theory for Exercise 1.8.44-51
           Hand Embroidery Artisan - Gift Items

           Different designs

           Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
           •  define jugnni
           •  define tixxi
           •  define tout / watti tout
           •  define duwalut
           •  define shudani and cudani.

           Jugnni                                               Tixxi as the “base stitch” of Sozni, just like “satin stitch”
                                                                in general embroidery, but finer and more compact.
           In  Kashmiri  embroidery,  Jugni  (also  called  Juggni/
           Jugenni) is a leaf-shaped motif, often elongated and   Wati Tout” in Kashmiri Embroidery
           curved, used as a filler or border element in Sozni work.   “Wati” in Kashmiri can mean a rounded or coiled shape,
           Sometimes people pronounce or spell it slightly differently   sometimes referring to a knot or floral bud in design
           as jiggni/jiggini.                                   language.
           Sozni
                                                                “Tout” is likely a local pronunciation or variation for
           •  It is a small motif, usually almond or paisley-like in   “thread” or “motif” used in artisan workshops to describe
              structure.                                        a specific pattern style or stitch element.
           •  It can be stitched in single or multiple layers depending   So, “Wati Tout” might refer to
              on the design.                                    A circular floral or coiled motif used in Kashmiri hand
           •  Often used along with flowers, vines, or chinar leaves   embroidery, particularly in Sozni or Aari work often done
              in Kashmiri shawl patterns.                       with precision to represent blooming buds or coiled vines.
           Tixxi                                                What is “Duwalut” in Sozni Embroidery?
           •   In Sozni embroidery, Tixxi  is one of the fundamental   “Duwalut” refers to a double-sided Sozni embroidery
              stitching techniques.                             technique — one of the most intricate and highly skilled
                                                                forms of needlework in Kashmir.
           •   It is not a motif, but a style of laying the thread while
              embroidering.                                     Key features of Duwalut Sozni
           Meaning of Tixxi in Sozni                            Double-Sided Perfection

           •  The  word Tixxi  refers  to  closely  packed,  parallel,   The embroidery appears identical on both sides of the
              slanting stitches.                                fabric.
           •  The stitches are placed very fine and close together   There’s no visible knot, loose thread, or backing both
              so that no fabric is visible between them.        sides are mirror images.
           •  It gives the embroidery a smooth, satin-like finish.  Requires extreme precision and years of mastery.
           •  Usually worked with silk threads on pashmina/wool   Mostly Done on
              base.                                             Pure Pashmina shawls and stoles (lightweight and fine).
           Features of Tixxi
                                                                Occasionally on high-grade wool or silk, but Pashmina
           •  Stitches are short, neat, and uniform.            is traditional.
           •  Creates a flat surface without bulges.            Motifs

           •  Often used for filling motifs such as leaves, petals, or   Floral vines, chinar leaves, paisleys, birds.
              small almond (badaam) shapes.
                                                                The arrangement is often symmetrical due to the double-
           •  Requires high precision and patience, as uneven   sided nature.
              spacing can spoil the design.
                                                                Threads
           Uses in Sozni Shawls                                 Fine silk or cotton threads in subtle, elegant colors.
           •  Borders: To fill thin vines and outlines.
                                                                Unlike Aari or Crewel, Sozni (including Duwalut) avoids
           •  Motifs: Chinar leaves, flowers, jugni, badaam.    bold or raised textures.

           •  Dual-sided Shawls (Duwolut): Tixxi is especially   Why It’s special: Duwalut pieces are collector’s items
              important because it looks neat on both sides.    expensive, rare, and labor-intensive.

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