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    8  Khatraash: Lines, either diagonal or vertical      Fig 8
           9  Dordar Khurd: Broad border of embroidery on 2 ends
              of the shawl, with a minimum width of 3 inches.
           10 Bootidar: shawls with small motifs or bootees
           11 Chaarbadam: four paisley forms
           Motifs used in embroidery

           Kashmiri embroidery motifs often include flowers, leaves,
           fruits, birds, and geometric patterns.
           Motifs

           •  Flowers: Lilies, tulips, saffron, lotuses, and more
           •  Leaves: Chinar leaves, which are inspired by the
              majestic Chinar trees of Kashmir
           •  Fruits: Grapes, apples, mangoes, almonds, and     Features of Kalamkari embroidery
              cherries                                          1  Origin
           •  Birds: Parrots, woodpeckers, and kingfishers         •  Rooted in Andhra Pradesh, the term “Kalamkari”
                                                                      comes  from  “kalam”  (pen)  and  “kari”  (work),
           •  Geometric patterns: Paisley patterns and other
              geometric designs                                       meaning pen work.
           Designs used in embroidery                              •  Traditionally, no embroidery was involved—only
                                                                      painting using bamboo pens and natural dyes.
           Common designs used in Kashmiri embroidery include
           floral motifs like lilies, tulips, and lotuses, leaves like   2  Fusion with embroidery
           the Chinar leaf, fruits like grapes and apples, various   •  Modern artisans often embellish Kalamkari
           birds, paisley patterns, geometric shapes, and intricate   designs with embroidery to enhance detailing.
           combinations of these elements, often inspired by the   •  Embroidery is usually done along the contours of
           natural beauty of Kashmir; popular embroidery techniques   motifs like peacocks, flowers, mythological scenes,
           include Sozni, Chain stitch, and Aari embroidery.
                                                                      or tree of life.
           Kashmiri embroidery designs
                                                                3  Common stitches used
           •  Nature-inspired: The most prominent designs are      •  Chain stitch
              based on elements from nature, including flowers,
              leaves, fruits, and birds.                           •  Running stitch
           •  Chinar leaf motif: A particularly iconic design      •  Satin stitch
              representing the Chinar tree, deeply rooted in       •  Sometimes, zari or mirror work is also added.
              Kashmiri culture.
                                                                4  Materials used
           •  Geometric patterns: Alongside floral motifs,
              geometric designs are also commonly used.            •  Cotton or silk fabric (hand-painted or printed with
                                                                      Kalamkari motifs).
           •  Paisley  influence:  Paisley patterns can be seen
              integrated into Kashmiri embroidery.                 •  Embroidery threads like cotton, silk, or metallic
                                                                      zari.
           Kalamkari embroidery is a form of decorative needlework
           that combines traditional Kalamkari art with embroidery   5  Colors
           techniques to enhance the visual richness of the textile.   •  Dominated by earthy tones—indigo, rust, mustard,
           While Kalamkari is originally a hand-painting or block-    black, and maroon—due to the use of natural dyes.
           printing technique done on fabric using natural dyes,
           especially practiced in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana,
           when embroidery is added, it results in a fusion art where
           motifs are outlined or filled with stitches to add texture
           and dimension. (Fig 8)

           40                H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37

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