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Page 72 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
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    Handicrafts & Carpets                              Related Theory for Exercise 1.10.59-63
           Hand Embroidery Artisan - Rafugari and Finishing & Packing

           Rafugari and it techniques

           Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
           •  define rafugari
           •  state the tools and material used in rafugari.

           Rafugari is a beautiful and skilled traditional Indian   3  Embroidery-based mending
           textile craft, specifically a form of hand embroidery and   Decorative approach where the mending is intentionally
           visible mending that originated in Kashmir. The word   visible and artistic.
           “Rafugar” means a darning artisan, and Rafugari is the
           art of invisible mending or repair, mainly practiced on fine   Flowers, motifs, or geometric patterns are stitched over
           woolen fabrics like Pashmina shawls, silk, or Kani shawls.  or around the tear.
           What is Rafugari?                                    This has been adapted into contemporary visible
           It is the art of mending torn or worn-out fabric so skillfully   mending movements.
           that the damage becomes invisible to the naked eye.  4  Patch Rafugari
           Traditionally  used  to  repair  high-value  textiles  like   A small patch (ideally from the same or similar fabric) is
           handwoven or embroidered shawls.                     stitched onto the area.
           Today, it is gaining recognition as a sustainable fashion   Edges are folded in and invisibly hemmed.
           technique giving old clothes new life.
           Techniques in Rafugari                               Tools & Materials
           1  Invisible darning (Traditional Rafugari)          1  Fine embroidery needles
           Threads  are  drawn  from  the  fabric  itself  or  carefully   2  Matching silk/woolen threads
           matched to the weave.                                3  Tweezers, magnifying glass (for precision)

           The weaver/darner reconstructs the warp and weft to   4  Darning mushroom (optional)
           replicate the exact pattern or texture.
           Often done on looms or by hand with fine needles and   5  Traditional handloom (for large repairs)
           magnifying glasses.                                  Modern usage
           2  Surface darning                                   1  Reviving vintage or heirloom textiles
           Used when the tear or hole is large.                 2  Upcycling  damaged  garments  as  a  form  of  slow

           Threads are woven across the damaged area in a basket-  fashion
           weave style.                                         3  Artistic or visible mending for jackets, jeans, shawls,
           Involves more texture, sometimes slightly visible, but still   or scarves
           clean and elegant.
           Washing and packing
           Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
           •  state the washing process for sozni shawl
           •  state the packing process for sozni shawl.

           Sozni  shawls  those  beautifully  hand-embroidered   Check embroidery condition: Make sure the threads
           Kashmiri pieces require delicate handling, especially   are secure and colors are fast.
           during washing and packing to preserve their intricate   Mark defects (if any): Torn threads, stains, or loose
           work  and  fine  wool  (usually  pashmina  or  fine  wool   ends are noted.
           blends).
           Here’s  a  breakdown  of  the  washing  and  packing   2  Gentle hand washing
           process for Sozni shawls, typically done at the artisan   Use cold or lukewarm water: Hot water can shrink or
           or manufacturer level before they reach customers or   damage fine wool.
           export markets:                                      Mild detergent or wool-safe liquid soap: Avoid harsh
           Washing process (Sozni Shawls)                       chemicals to protect fabric and embroidery.
           1  Inspection before washing                         Soft hand agitation  only:  No  wringing,  twisting,  or
                                                                scrubbing this maintains shape and embroidery integrity.

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