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Page 25 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
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    Handicrafts & Carpets                                    Related Theory for Exercise 1.2.11
                Hand Embroidery Artisan - Stitches and Threads

                Different fabrics

                Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
                •  explain raffal fabric
                •  explain the term “count”
                •  explain the fineness parameter “count 64”
                •  explain the fineness parameter “count 120”
                •  explain why shahtoosa fabric is king of wool
                •  explain about pashmina fabric
                •  explain about toosha fabric
                •  list the features of semi pashmina fabric.

                Raffal fabric                                           •  Definition: Number of length units per unit weight.
                “Raffal” shawls are produced solely from Pure Merino    •  Example (English Cotton Count - Ne):
                Wool. The micron of the wool used is mainly between        -  1 Ne = 1 hank (840 yards) per pound.
                19-21 which guarantees that the fabric will not cause
                any problems with itch or prickle against delicate skin.   -  64 Ne = 64 hanks (each 840 yards) per pound
                Its warm, but very light in weight, “Raffal” wraps do not     → very fine yarn.
                crease which makes them ideal for travelling.              ü  Higher count = finer yarn
                From Marino wool, raffal shawl have been woven on          Ð  Lower count = coarser yarn
                handloom which are a combination of traditional skill
                and contemporary colours and designs. The shawls are   2  Direct System (higher number = thicker yarn)
                manufactured with finest wool and to create a variety   •  Used for: Synthetic fibers (Denier, Tex).
                besides pure wool shawl. Shawls have been made in
                wool/silk, pashmina/silk blends as well. (Fig 1)        •  Definition: Weight per unit length.

                  Fig 1                                                 •  Example (Tex):
                                                                           -  Tex 20 = 20 grams per 1,000 meters.

                                                                           -  Tex  100  =  100  grams  per  1,000  meters  →
                                                                              thicker yarn.
                                                                           ü  Higher count = coarser/thicker yarn

                                                                           Ð Lower count = finer yarn.
                                                                      Yarn/thread count in embroidery?
                                                                      In embroidery, thread count indicates how fine or thick
                                                                      a thread is. The most common system used for natural
                                                                      fiber threads like cotton or wool is the English Cotton
                                                                      Count (Ne) system, which is indirect:
                Yarn count is a numerical expression that indicates the   •  Count (Ne) = Number of hanks (1 hank = 840 yards)
                fineness or thickness of a yarn. It tells us how thick or thin   in one pound of yarn.
                the yarn is, and helps in standardizing yarns for weaving,
                knitting, and embroidery.                             •  So, higher count = thinner/finer thread, and lower
                                                                        count = thicker thread.
                Two main systems of yarn count
                1  Indirect System (higher number = finer yarn)
                   •  Used for: Cotton, Wool (Worsted), Linen, etc.

                Count 64 vs Count 120 –  comparison
                       Aspect                  Count 64 Thread                         Count 120 Thread
                 Definition          64 hanks of 840 yards per pound      120 hanks of 840 yards per pound
                 Thickness           Fine                                 Very fine (almost hair-like)
                 Weight              Lighter than medium-counts           Extremely light
                 Smoothness          Smooth, soft                         Silky smooth, ultra-soft

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