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Page 45 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
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    Adding embellishments: Once the embroidery is         In Sozni embroidery, the levelling line of design refers
                complete,  additional  embellishments  can  be  added.   to the guideline or base line that helps artisans maintain
                These could be sequins, beads, mirrors, etc. This is also   symmetry, alignment, and uniformity in the embroidered
                a time-consuming task as each piece is carefully added   patterns especially crucial in traditional designs like
                over the embroidery with a knot to hold it firmly in place.   borders (pallas), jalis, or central motifs.
                This step also requires a skilled artisan to be done with   Purpose of the levelling line
                precision and speed.
                                                                      1  Alignment: Ensures that all motifs are placed at the
                Finishing the saree: The final step is to finish the saree.   same height or follow the same curve.
                This involves trimming any loose threads and adding a
                nice border to give it a lasting firmness. Saree is then   2  Symmetry: Helps in maintaining balanced design on
                dry cleaned and steam ironed creating the final beautiful   both sides of the shawl or stole.
                product you receive.                                  3  Proportion: Assists in scaling the design correctly

                Packing the saree: This step is important to preserve   over large areas.
                the saree carefully. Each saree is carefully packed inside   4  Precision in dual-sided work: In reversible Sozni
                a cloth bag (created from the leftover fabrics in the   embroidery, both sides must match exactly levelling
                production house, a step towards zero waste production)   lines ensure accuracy.
                which is then packed inside the Box and shipped to
                costumer.                                             How It’s applied
                Kaaj (Fig 1)                                          •  A fine chalk line or stencil marking is drawn on the
                                                                        fabric.
                  Fig 1
                                                                      •  The artisan may use a ruler or string for straight lines
                                                                        or curved tools/templates for complex patterns.

                                                                      •  Designs are traced or sketched along these lines
                                                                        using rehearsal (tankha) technique.
                                                                      Types of levelling lines

                                                                      1  Straight line: For borders or central vertical designs.
                                                                      2  Curved/arc lines: For floral vines, paisleys, or Chinar
                                                                        patterns.
                                                                      3  Grid lines: For jali (net-like) designs to keep motifs
                                                                        in structured formation.
                                                                      Hemb in sozni embroidery (Fig 3)

                                                                       Fig 3
                The kaaj  is simple, easy and beautiful. It is called Blanket
                Stitch, as traditionally, it is used to stitch the edges of
                shawls. It not only gives the blanket edges a nice look
                but also secures them. This stitch is now used in many
                other crafting projects, making it one of the most sought-
                after stitches.
                The kaaj ( Blanket Stitch) is often confused with the
                Buttonhole Stitch. Instead, it should be said that Blanket
                Stitch and Buttonhole Stitch are often considered the
                same. While some extensive research would logically
                explain that they are not. While both stitches are used
                to secure edges, a Buttonhole Stitch is a sturdier one.

                Levelling line of design in sozni (Fig 2)
                                                                      In Sozni embroidery, the term “hemb” (sometimes spelled
                  Fig 2                                               hem or heemb) refers to the outer edge or margin of a
                                                                      shawl, stole, or fabric piece where the embroidery ends. It
                                                                      is both a design boundary and a finishing element, playing
                                                                      an important role in maintaining neatness, alignment, and
                                                                      symmetry in the overall layout.

                                                                      Functions of the hemb in sozni embroidery
                                                                      1  Design boundary:  Marks  where  the  embroidery
                                                                        should start and stop—especially in borders (pallas)
                                                                        and corner designs.
                                   H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.21-26              35

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