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Page 54 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
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    •  Outlines are done first, then filled using tixxi or   Gaadikond (Fig 2)
                satin stitch.                                    Fig 2
           4  Symmetry & detailing
              •  High-quality Chinar designs ensure symmetry in
                lobes and visible vein detailing.
           Types of Chinar designs

                 Type                 Description
            Single Chinar   One large  leaf, often placed near
                            shoulder or corner
            Cluster Chinar  3–5 leaves connected by stems
            Chinar Bel      A  vine  made  of  flowing  chinar
                            leaves and flowers
            Jaal with Chinar  Net-like   all-over   pattern     “Gaadikond” is a traditional motif used in Kashmiri Sozni
                            incorporating Chinar                embroidery, and it holds both aesthetic and symbolic
                                                                value. It is often confused or interchanged with similar-
           Ukpan / Dupan/Trupan                                 sounding motifs like Gaadikund, but Gaadikond has its
           In Sozni embroidery, a single thread is used to create   distinct shape, structure, and design placement.
           the main design, while double threads can be used for   Feature               Description
           reinforcing stitches or creating thicker lines or borders.
                                                                 Term origin Likely   a   combination   of   “Gaadi”
           Here’s a more detailed explanation:                              (structured/form) and “Kond” (pointed tip

           •  Single Thread (Ukpan): Sozni embroidery, known                or crown) in local usage
              for its fine and delicate work, often uses a single   Shape   A stylized floral or crown-like form with
              continuous  thread  to  create  intricate  designs  on        curved lines  and pointed  ends; may
              pashmina shawls.                                              resemble a lotus bud, flame, or teardrop
           •  Double Thread(Dupan):  While less common in        Structure  Often  symmetrical, pointed at  the  tip,
              the overall Sozni technique, double threads can be            and broader at the base – almost like a
              employed for specific purposes, such as reinforcing           floral crown or bud with a tapering top
              stitches or creating thicker outlines or borders.  Style      More decorative  and centrally  focused,
           Examples of double thread use                                    used either solo or in symmetrical repeat
                                                                            patterns
           •  Double stem stitch: This stitch, where a stem stitch
              is done twice, can create thicker outlines or borders.   Representation in Sozni Embroidery
           •  Double threaded backstitch: This stitch involves   1  Design characteristics
              backstitching and then lacing a second thread through   •  Has a central pointed element, sometimes flanked
              the stitches to create a chain-like pattern.            by smaller petals
           •  Reinforcing stitches: Using two strands of thread    •  Embroidered with fine detailing
              can provide extra strength and durability to certain
              areas of the embroidery.                             •  Often  used  in  borders,  palla  (shawl  ends),  or
                                                                      central medallion patterns
           Sozni embroidery techniques
                                                                2  Stitch techniques used
           •  Aksi: A single-sided embroidery pattern where the
              thread is split and only one side of the weft thread is   Stitch               Purpose
              picked up, creating a reflection-like effect.      Tixxi (close satin  To fill the form and create smooth

           •  Dorukha: When the same technique as Aksi is done   stitch)           texture
              on both sides of the fabric.                       Zanjeer   (outline To  sharply  define  edges  and
                                                                 stitch)           pointed tips
           •  Kashmiri stitch:  A skilled execution of a single
              stitch, which may comprise the chain stitch, the satin   Do-Rukha  When  used  in  luxury  double-
              stitch, the slanted darn stitch, the stem stitch, and the   (double-sided  sided shawls
              herringbone stitch.                                stitch)
           •  Sozni design: Duffe Daar Kani Sozni: A regulated   Chidkan           Sometimes  for  filling  small
              pattern of flowers, leaves, and berries.                             interior areas
           •   24 Poshal Kani Sozni: An example of closely
              embroidered threads, leaving no space on the
              pashmina cloth.
           44                H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.7.38-43

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