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    Punjberg                                              Stitch Type  Filled with Sozni stitch – satin, shading,
           The term “Punjberg”  refers to:                                   or fine directional lines

           Punjberg — Five Leaf Motif                            Symbolism   Represents   fertility,  nature,  and
                                                                             elegance in traditional art
           •  “Punj”  means five in Persian/Urdu
                                                                Common designs using badaam
           •  “Berg”  means leaf
                                                                •  Single badaam: Used with minimalistic layout or fine
           So, Punjberg literally means a motif of five leaves — a   shawls
           stylized leaf cluster that is often used to enhance the
           richness and symmetry of a Sozni design.             •  Badaam with Gul (Flower): Almond surrounded by
                                                                   floral patterns
           Features of Punjberg in Sozni
                                                                •  Badaam bail: A  continuous  vine  with  repeating
           •  Design structure                                     badaam shapes
              -  Typically has one central leaf and four surrounding   Color & detailing
                it
                                                                •  Often filled with green, beige, brown, or contrast tones
              -  Arranged in a star, fan, or circular layout
                                                                •  Outlined with dark thread to highlight the almond
           •  Placement                                            shape
              -  Used in main body motifs, corners, or gaadikund/  •  Sometimes shaded for 3D effect using closely packed
                charkoon designs                                   Sozni stitches

              -  Sometimes accompanies flowers (gul) or paisley   zeal
                (kairi)
                                                                The term “Zeal” (also spelled “Zil”, “Zeel”) refers to:
           Stitch & colors
                                                                Zeal — Outline stitch
           •  Technique: Done in fine Sozni stitch with intricate
             detailing                                          •  “Zeal” in Sozni means the fine outline or border line
                                                                   of a motif.
           •  Shading: May include light-to-dark green shades or
              other contrasting tones for visual depth          •  It is a delicate stitch that defines the edges of flowers,
                                                                   leaves, paisleys, and vines after the motif has been
           •  Highlighting: Sometimes outlined in darker thread    filled with color.
              to emphasize form
                                                                Role of zeal in sozni embroidery
           Use in motif composition
                                                                   Feature               Description
                         Leaf
              Motif                     Common use               Function    Gives sharpness, definition, and clarity
                        count                                                to the motif
            Berg           1     Basic element, filler           Position    Always worked after the main filling is
            Duberg         2     Borders, vines                              done
            Seberg         3     Medium motifs, corner work      Thread      Usually  darker  or  contrasting  color
            Punjberg       4     Larger motifs, focal points                 (e.g., black, maroon, deep green)

           Badaam                                                Stitch Style  Done with fine needlework, smooth and
                                                                             continuous outlines
           The term “Badaam” refers to:
                                                                 Importance  Essential for giving the finished look to
           Badaam almond motif                                               the design
           •  “Badaam” means almond in Persian/Urdu             Common practice

           •  It represents a stylized almond-shaped motif, which   •  A  Chinar  leaf,  for  example,  is  filled  with  different
              is long and oval, tapering at both ends              shades — and then outlined with Zeal to sharpen its
           Features of badaam motif in sozni                       borders.
                                                                •  Even the Badaam, Duberg, or Paisley (Kairi) motifs
             Feature                Description                    are incomplete without this final Zeal outline.
            Shape       Almond-shaped – pointed at both ends,
                        rounded in the center
            Size        Can be small (filler) or large (main motif)
            Placement   Used in borders, central panels, butidar
                        (dotted) arrangements

           42                H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37

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