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Page 68 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
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    Why It’s so valued                                   Extremely rare and expensive
           Represents perfection in handwork there’s no room for   The  skill  to  do  Duwaluth  Sozni  is  passed  down
           error.                                               generationally only a few master artisans are known for it.

           Problems and solutions for hand embroidery

           Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
           •  state the problems related to shawl embroidery
           •  state the solutions for the problems related to shawl embroidery
           •  state the raw material issues for shawl embroidery and its solution.

           Problems in shawl embroidery & their solutions       Encourage buyers to look for authentic hand-embroidered
           1  Thread breakage & uneven tension                  tags.
           Problem                                              Platforms like Craftmark, Tribes India, or SEWA help
                                                                promote ethical purchases.
           Embroidery threads, especially silk or metallic ones, can
           break or tangle due to friction or poor-quality threads.   5  Pilling or Damage to Base Fabric (esp. Pashmina)
           This affects design flow and durability.             Problem

           Solutions                                            Fine Pashmina is delicate and can pill, stretch, or wear
           Use high-quality, pre-treated threads (silk, cotton, zari).  thin affecting the beauty and strength of the embroidery.
           Maintain consistent needle tension during embroidery.  Solutions
           Store threads properly to prevent humidity damage.   Use  embroidery  with  soft-tension  threads  and  non-
                                                                damaging techniques.
           2  Color fading or bleeding
                                                                Store shawls flat or gently rolled never hang Pashmina.
           Problem
                                                                Avoid using heavy embroidery on super-fine fabric.
           Poor dyeing or low-quality threads can lead to color
           bleeding during washing or fading over time, especially   6  Counterfeit or machine-made embroidery
           in sunlight.                                         Problem
           Solutions                                            Many “hand-embroidered” shawls are actually machine-
           Use colorfast threads and natural dyes where possible.  stitched cheaper but passed off as handmade.
           Wash  embroidered  shawls  in  cold  water  with  mild   Solutions
           detergents, or dry clean only.                       Look for tell-tale signs: uniformity (machine), versus tiny
           Store away from direct sunlight.                     irregularities (hand).
           3  Imperfect stitching or asymmetry                  Buy from reputed sources or artisan groups.
           Problem                                              Ask  for  artisan  certification  or  GI-tagged  items
                                                                (Geographical Indication).
           If  the  base  outline  (Cudani)  isn’t  accurate,  the  final
           design can look lopsided or messy especially critical in   7  Lack of market access for artisans
           dual-sided Sozni.                                    Problem
           Solutions                                            Many skilled artisans don’t have direct access to buyers
           Use  well-trained  artisans  for  initial  motif  sketching   or global markets.
           (Cudani).                                            Solutions
           Regular inspection during stitching.                 Promote artisan work via social media, exhibitions, and
           Allow for Shudani stage (final cleanup and adjustment).  global craft fairs.
           4  Low wages & artisan exploitation                  NGOs and e-commerce platforms can bridge the gap
                                                                between villages and urban buyers.
           Problem
                                                                Workshops and training in digital literacy, pricing, and
           Artisans, especially in Kashmir, are often underpaid   marketing help immensely.
           despite the labor-intensive nature of the work. Middlemen
           take most profits.                                   Raw material issues in shawl embroidery & their
                                                                solutions
           Solutions
                                                                1  Low-Quality Base Fabric (e.g., Pashmina, Wool,
           Promote fair trade practices and support direct artisan   Cotton)
           collectives.
           58                H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.9.52-58

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