Basic HTML Version

|  | Table of Contents |  | View Full Version

Page 27 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
P. 27

    The animal cruelty associated with Shahtoosh shawls   luxury Pashmina shawls. It is Pashmina shawls that are
                led to their ban in the year 1975. This was done under   synonyms for Kashmiri shawls. When we say Kashmiri
                the Convention on International Trade in Endangered   shawls, we usually mean Pashmina, as wool shawls
                Species  (CITES),  following  a  fall  in  the  number  of   aren’t that famous and Shahtoosh is under a ban.
                antelopes. This marked the end of the trade of these   Hand embroidery is the only method of embroidery
                precious treasure-worthy shawls. Now the only option left   Pashmina shawls have. This is because they never bear
                to grace formal and special events was the Pashmina.
                                                                      the strain of machine embroidery. Artisans use lightweight
                The texture of a Shahtoosh shawl is simply exquisite. The   threads and fine needles to embroider these shawls.
                wool fibers are incredibly fine - often as thin as 9 to 11   These might even take a number of years to complete.
                microns making them much softer and lighter than even   The creation of Pashmina shawls is an art form that came
                the finest Pashmina. This makes Shahtoosh feel like   down through generations in Kashmir. Unlike other types
                a delicate veil on the skin, yet it retains an exceptional   of Kashmiri shawls, which may involve machine weaving,
                ability to trap warmth, making it ideal for harsh winter   authentic  Pashmina  is  hand-spun  and  hand-woven,
                climates. It’s no wonder that Shahtoosh shawls were once   maintaining traditional techniques that have existed for
                a symbol of opulence, worn by royalty and the wealthy   centuries.
                elite across the globe.
                                                                      Artisans carefully comb the wool from the goat’s undercoat
                However, the rarity of Shahtoosh goes beyond just its   in spring, when the goats naturally shed their wool. After
                luxurious texture. Tibetan Antelopes do not produce as   collection, the raw wool undergoes a lengthy cleaning
                much wool as other animals, and because they inhabit   process to remove impurities, ensuring that the fabric will
                remote, high-altitude regions, gathering their wool has   be pure and fine. The cleaned wool is then hand-spun into
                always  been  a  difficult  and  laborious  process.  Each   fine threads using a traditional wooden spinning wheel,
                Shahtoosh shawl requires the wool of at least three to five   or “yinder.” Hand-spinning is a painstaking process that
                Chirus, adding to its exclusivity and elevating its status   requires incredible skill and patience. A single thread of
                as the ultimate luxury item. Unfortunately, this rarity has   Pashmina is incredibly delicate, and the spinner must
                contributed to a much darker side of Shahtoosh’s history.
                                                                      ensure it remains even and smooth.
                Pashmina fabric (Fig 3)
                                                                      Weaving  is  another  labor-intensive  step.  Highly
                  Fig 3                                               skilled artisans weave the spun threads on traditional
                                                                      handlooms. Depending on the complexity of the design
                                                                      and the size of the shawl, the weaving process can take
                                                                      several weeks or even months to complete. The time and
                                                                      dedication required for this process make Pashmina truly
                                                                      unique among types of Kashmiri shawls.

                                                                      Artisans dye the shawls by hand, using natural dyes
                                                                      derived from plants, minerals, and other organic
                                                                      materials. These  natural  dyes  are  eco-friendly  and
                                                                      produce rich, vibrant colors that further enhance the
                                                                      elegance of the shawl. After dyeing, they wash and dry
                                                                      the shawls carefully to maintain their softness.
                                                                      Toosha fabric

                            Changthangi goats in Ladakh               Toosh is considered as one of the most regal colours of
                The woollen shawls of Kashmir have an ordinary quality,   Cashmere, as it is one of the natural shades that pure
                and there is a ban on Shahtoosh. Hence, this makes    Cashmere is found in. Ancient paintings of 16th century
                Pashmina  shawls  the  only  flaunt-worthy  shawls  the   leaders and nobles most of the times can be seen in this
                valley possesses Pashmina shawls are handmade from    classy colour, which looks and feels amazing.
                the down fibre of the Capra hircus goat. The goat grows   The  Tosha  Shawl,  radiating  brilliance  and  allure,
                this fine hair to survive the harsh freezing temperatures   showcases the exquisite Sozni Embroidery across its
                in Ladakh. However, the goat loses this hair naturally in   soft and warm fabric. The masterful needlework features
                its moulting period, which is the Spring season. Herders   charming vines and intricate Bootis, reflecting the artistry
                collect it and process it into luxury shawls.         and elegance of the craft. Hand-spun and hand-woven,

                Raw  Cashmere  acquired  from  the  goat  measures  a   this shawl is a testament to the skill, dedication, and
                meagre 12 to 16 microns in diameter. And this makes   passion of the artisans who pour their heart and soul into
                Pashmina shawls lightweight, soft and fine. Firstly, after   creating such masterpieces.
                its acquisition, artisans clean the Cashmere wool, and   Semi pashmina:  Pashmina material is highly delicate
                then manually process it. This might take days, months   and light, which makes the manufacturing difficult. This
                or sometimes years together if the type demands. And   is why Pashmina wool is combined with high-quality
                what comes to existence after the painstaking efforts   angora wool. This creates highly durable semi pashmina
                and exceptionally skilful work methods of the artisans, is   material.

                                    H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.2.11                17

| 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 |