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Page 51 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT
P. 51

    Types of motifs used in design

                Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
                •  introduction, features and characteristics of berg, duberg, seberg, punjberg
                •  introduction to badaam
                •  state the features, common designs used in badaam
                •  state about colouring and detailing for badaam
                •  state about zeal.

                Introduction about berg                               Characteristics
                The term “Berg” refers to                             •  Common usage: Between flower motifs (gul), around
                Berg leaf motif                                         vines (bail), or scattered as fillers
                                                                      •  Design shape: Usually almond-shaped or pointed
                “Berg” is derived from the Persian/Urdu word “, which
                means leaf. In Sozni embroidery, Berg is a common       leaves facing outward
                design element that represents stylized or naturalistic   •  Thread work: Done using fine Sozni stitch, usually
                leaves, and it is intricately used in:                  in green, brown, or matching design color
                •  Chinar leaves (very famous in Kashmiri motifs)     Where duberg is seen
                •  Paisley designs (sometimes with leaf-like ends)    •  On shawl borders as regular repeat elements
                •  Floral borders and vines (leaves on stems)         •  In overall designs to fill space between larger motifs

                Features of Berg in Sozni                             •  As part of the “gaadikund” or “charkoon” design layout
                •  Stitch type: Fine satin or needle stitches done by   Seberg
                   hand                                               In Sozni embroidery, the term “Seberg”  refers to:

                •  Detail: Often shaded or filled using closely worked   Seberg  — Three Leaf Motif
                   lines to give depth
                                                                      •  “Se”  means three in Persian/Urdu
                •  Placement: Used in combination with flowers (gul),
                   vines (bail), and other natural motifs             •  “Berg”  means leaf
                •  Thread colors: Usually done in multiple colors like   So, “Seberg” means a motif or design that consists of
                   green, golden brown, or even stylized with blues/pinks   three leaves.
                   depending on the shawl                             Usage in sozni: Seberg is a traditional motif used either
                Variations of berg                                    alone or as a repeating element in a larger pattern. It
                                                                      may appear:
                Sometimes artisans give special names to different types
                of leaf designs:                                      •  As three leaves joined at the base, spreading like a
                                                                        fan or triangle
                •  Chinar berg – broad, five-pointed leaf shape
                                                                      •  Sometimes with a small flower (gul) in the center
                •  Badam berg – almond-shaped leaf (elongated)
                                                                      •  Along  borders,  palla,  or  within  gaadikund  and
                •  Narrow berg – used in border vines or fine lines
                                                                        charkoon compositions
                Duberg: In Sozni embroidery, the term “Duberg”  refers   Stitch & style
                to:
                                                                      •  Stitching: Done in fine Sozni stitch, often with shades
                Duberg two leaf motif
                                                                        of green or stylized colors
                •  “Du” means two, and “Berg” means leaf in Persian/  •  Shape:  Three  leaves  can  be  equal-sized  or  one
                   Urdu.
                                                                        central leaf with two side leaves
                •  So “Duberg” literally means “Two Leaves”.          •  Function: Used for balancing the design visually
                In sozni design
                                                                      Comparison
                Duberg is a small motif featuring a pair of symmetrical
                or angled leaves, often:                                  Motif     Meaning             Use
                •  Connected at the base or stem                      Berg          1 leaf     Basic element
                                                                      Duberg        2 leaves   Border filler, small motifs
                •  Positioned opposite each other
                                                                      Seberg        3 leaves   Slightly larger  motif  or
                •  Used as a repeating filler pattern or border element                        cluster

                                   H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.6.27-37              41

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